Maison 25 of 100 · Fashion & Couture

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The reading

Virgil Abloh’s house is the test of whether a designer brand can outlive its founder in under 15 years. The quotation marks and the zip-tie were a language. LVMH sold the brand to Bluestar Alliance in September 2024, so the job of keeping that language from becoming a costume now belongs to a licensing house rather than to a luxury group.

The house

Origin
Italy Founded in Milan by the American designer Virgil Abloh
Founded
2013 Pyrex Vision, the precursor, 2012
Atelier
Fashion & Couture
Ownership
Bluestar Alliance (acquired from LVMH, September 2024) as of 2026-09-23
Signature
Diagonal stripes / Industrial zip-tie
Register note
Post-Virgil question This line is the register’s own characterisation, not a sourced figure; see Méthode.

How the register places it

It is one of nineteen maisons filed here from Italy, the second-largest national group in the register. Bluestar Alliance holds no other house in this register. Within the register it is the 25th of the twenty-five houses filed under Fashion & Couture. Against the whole register by founding year it comes 99th of a hundred. The register's oldest house is Rémy Martin (1724) and its youngest Genesis (2015); this one was founded 2013.

Either side of it in the register

Also from Italy

Italy in the country atlas