Atelier 1 of 7 · 25 maisons

Fashion & Couture

The bag is furniture that walks. France writes the codes, Italy runs the workshops, and the United States writes the lifestyle that gets draped over both. Twenty-five houses file here, the largest room in the register, and in 2026 they are split cleanly down the middle between the houses compounding on scarcity and the houses in a reset.

On the scarcity side the arithmetic is unarguable. Hermès closed FY2025 at €16.0 billion of revenue and a 41.0% recurring operating margin, wider than any major listed comparator, having added stores the way a watchmaker adds references — 294 of them, in 45 countries. The Row sells no logo at all. Loro Piana sells the fibre. None of the three has a growth story that depends on being seen from across a room.

On the reset side, Gucci turned about €6.0 billion in 2025, down 22% at Kering, and Q2 2026 comparable sales were −2%, which is a smaller hole than the one it was in. Balenciaga is rebuilding under a new hand. Burberry is doing the same with a trench. A reset is not a failure; it is what happens when a house that spent a decade being loud has to learn a quieter register, and it takes about three years.

Between the two sits the middle of the table, where Prada stacked twenty consecutive quarters of growth to the end of 2025 and Miu Miu, its thirty-year-old second line, grew retail sales 35% in a year and briefly made the parent look slow. Saint Laurent was No.1 in the Lyst Index in Q3 2025 and again in Q4 2025, on the strength of a loafer.

The room's founding years run from 1837 to 2013 — from a Paris harness workshop to a Milanese label built by an American architect. That is the argument of this atelier in one line: the object outlasts the noise around it, and the register files a house by the object.

The room, counted

Fashion & Couture holds twenty-five of the hundred places, the largest room in the register. Its houses run from No. 1 Hermès to No. 25 Off-White. Founding years run 1837 to 2013, a span of 176 years, with a median of 1951: Hermès is the oldest filed here and Off-White the youngest. The room draws on five countries — Italy 12, France 7, the United States 3, Spain 2, the United Kingdom 1. Its parents overlap: LVMH holds seven, Kering holds four, Prada Group holds three of the houses in this room. Eleven of the twenty-five carry an attributed figure on their page; the rest carry a reading and no number, which is the register's rule rather than an omission.

The 25 maisons filed under Fashion & Couture

  1. No. 1 Hermès France · est. 1837 Birkin / Kelly
  2. No. 2 Louis Vuitton France · est. 1854 Monogram / Neverfull
  3. No. 3 Chanel France · est. 1910 Classic 11.12 / N°5
  4. No. 4 Dior France · est. 1946 Lady Dior / Sauvage
  5. No. 5 Gucci Italy · est. 1921 Jackie 1961 / Horsebit
  6. No. 6 Prada Italy · est. 1913 Galleria Saffiano
  7. No. 7 Saint Laurent France · est. 1961 Loulou / Le Loafer
  8. No. 8 Celine France · est. 1945 Triomphe / Classic bag
  9. No. 9 Fendi Italy · est. 1925 Baguette / Peekaboo
  10. No. 10 Loewe Spain · est. 1846 Puzzle / Flamenco
  11. No. 11 Bottega Veneta Italy · est. 1966 Intrecciato / Andiamo
  12. No. 12 Balenciaga Spain · est. 1917 Hourglass / City
  13. No. 13 Valentino Italy · est. 1960 Rockstud / VLogo
  14. No. 14 Givenchy France · est. 1952 Antigona
  15. No. 15 Burberry United Kingdom · est. 1856 Trench / Check
  16. No. 16 Ralph Lauren United States · est. 1967 Polo pony / Purple Label
  17. No. 17 The Row United States · est. 2006 Margaux bag
  18. No. 18 Miu Miu Italy · est. 1993 Wander / micro-mini
  19. No. 19 Versace Italy · est. 1978 Medusa / Barocco
  20. No. 20 Loro Piana Italy · est. 1924 Gift of Kings cashmere
  21. No. 21 Brunello Cucinelli Italy · est. 1978 Cashmere knit
  22. No. 22 Max Mara Italy · est. 1951 101801 camel coat
  23. No. 23 Moncler Italy · est. 1952 Maya jacket
  24. No. 24 Thom Browne United States · est. 2001 Short suit / grosgrain loop
  25. No. 25 Off-White Italy · est. 2013 Diagonal stripes / Industrial zip-tie

The other six rooms